A Trip Down the Garden Path

Turkish Delight

Hello, we're back. We've had a whirlwind trip through Turkey, though I think we only drove around less than a third of the country! Saturated with very old cultural wealth, beautiful beaches, amazing mosques, bargain shopping and friendly people, Turkey is certainly an amazing place to visit. I could write a mammoth post, as usual, but will embrace the 'less is more' paradigm (ha ha - yeah right) and do the top 8 highlights:

1. Ephesus - The colossal ruins of an ancient city
Firstly a Greek city, then years later, a Roman city, the ruins of Ephesus were absolutely amazing. One thing that really struck me was just how immense the city must have been. There were hundreds of marble bricks and columns standing upright or toppled over. Arches still intact, steps and marble roads cracked but still accessible and even a mosaic floor still displayed in its brilliance as it once would have been along the hall of little alcoves for merchants and tradesmen. The city's glory days begin as far back as about 400 BC! Imagine that?!? It just floors me, to walk amongst the ruins of something so old, yet something that survives (to a lesser degree) still today. I highly doubt that the little red brick home Glen and I lived in for 6 years will still be around in thousands of years. The many people of this ancient city were master craftsmen. Early Greek elements mingle with Roman modifications and additions, it's so interesting to imagine the fate of this city passed from hand to had as one population fell and another rose, as war was lost and won. Here are a few images of the ruins:

Entry tickets

Those amazingly old columns

Just look at all the bits and pieces. And what really horrified me was the fact that touists were climbing all over them to pose for photos! For some reason I thought they needed to be behind a barricade, perhaps even wrapped in cotton wool or something. But really, preservation is important...

The lovely friends I made on the tour: Emily, Mel, Claire and Celia.

Amazingly intact facade of the library

A theatre, it was immense and still pretty amazing. I can just imagine the peeps of the day coming along to see 'Wicked' or 'Priscilla' - ha ha

Main street

Me at the theatre

That amazing mosaic floor. It, and much of the rest of the city, is so well preserved because it lay covered in earth for many a year. I'm not sure if was ash, or something else...

Now, I think this was Aphrodite....not so sure though. I should really look it up and get my facts right!

Pillars. You can see the grooves in the centre where they fitted the pieces together - cool

Fleeting memories of high school history surfaced in my mind: Ionian and Corinthan columns, The Peloponnesian Wars, Alexander the Great, Persia, The Roman Empire...words of great historical significance, but alas lacking of any substance in my mind, as my knowledge of these things has faded with time. Brain, why don't you remember everything, is it too much to ask?
These ruins secure first place by the width of a hair, as second place was just as special.

2. Gallipoli - Anzac Day Dawn Service
Gallipoli was an equally amazing experience, but in a different way. A more personal thing, I guess. We spend years learning about the significance of the landing at Gallipoli and of the bravery of our Anzacs in World War 1. But to actually be there, standing on the exact ground at the exact time and date the first troops were dropped at Anzac Cove is really something special. We arrived at about 2pm on the afternoon of the 24th of April. The gates weren't to open until 6pm, but already people were waiting in their hundreds. Many Australian volunteers were on hand, and a few of these very passionate blokes entertained us with Anzac stories as we waited. Come 5:30 the gates opened. Crushed like cattle we waited to be allowed to trickle innside (10 at a time), to go through the security measures of a metal detector and bag scanner. Inside was just as crowded. Fighting for a a little strip of grass was a challenge. And come late evening, we were toe to toe and shoulder to shoulder. Snuggled up close was not so bad, the night turned out to be freezing! We were entertained by an Australian military band, and the lovely voice of a lady who sang all of the old fashioned wartime songs: 'Nursie, come over here and hold my hand, Nursie, there's something I don't understand, 'round my heart I get a funny pain, oh oh oh oh, it's coming on again!' (My grandparents taught me that one when I was little, love it). There were also a number of documentaries, short films, interviews and authentic transcripts of original documents displayed on the big screens in the area. This entertainment went for the duration of the evening, and was a nice touch. Though sleep was difficult, I only had about an hour. Everytime I'd drift off, something new would blast out over the speakers. Ah well I say, suck it up sista...

Glen enjoying the space, while it was available

and it just got squishier

An afternoon game of cards

And the cold sets in

Glen and Jann, staying warm

Up just before sunrise for the dawn service. Staring out to the tranquil and empty ocean as the last post floated on the wind, it wasn't hard to imagine, 96 years ago, the first Aussies jumping from the ships, often into neck deep water, and then running up the sand to the steep cliff faces of Anzac cove dodging the fire of the Turks.

The Dawn Service

The Last Post

Glen's Turkish friend, his name was hard to pronounce, and he told us it meant 'hero', so that's what he became. Hero even offered us to stay at his place next time we're in Turkey, nice bloke.

On the beach at Anzac Cove

The wreathes. Behind them it reads 'Anzac Cove'. Looking out to the ocean where the Anzac ships arrived, 96 years ago...

Afterwards, we walked 3 kms to Lone Pine to the Australian Service. This also was very special. Sitting across from graves and around one lone pine tree, we heard the tragic story of the attempt of the Aussies to take the hill of Lone Pine. Little did they know that it was a Turkish stronghold and what ensued was a bloodbath and complete failure to achieve the target. Onwards past a Turkish ceremony, we didn't arrive in time for the New Zealand service at Chunck Bair. The Kiwis achieved only a mildly better outcome at their great stand, securing the hill top temporarily, only to have to abandon it afterwards.

Beachside cemetery

Lone Pine

Waiting for the ceremony to start

I found a Cavill! But no Harkers.

In the trenches

A bunker

The Turkish cemetery, just beautiful

One thing that really struck me about the war, from the stories and descriptions shared in the ceremonies, was the tragedy of it all. To imagine the life of not only one man, but sometimes twenty or fifty, or even hundreds of men hanging on the simplicity of an order from one officer. One word, and these men faced their own death. It wasn't only a battle of guns or artillery, of strategy or tactics. It was a battle of individual will and strength: who could run faster, shoot straighter, slide down quicker, keep a level head, bear the disease, endure the loss of mates and follow the orders of another when every bone in your body was unwilling. That is what is truly amazing about these men. And you know, the taking of Gallipoli was a complete failure, hundreds of lives lost, only to retreat back out of the channel. So very, very sad.

But I will tell you the thing that really amazes me. The fact that while enemies at war, nowdays the Turks have so much respect and love for the Aussies it's astounding. To allow the service to be held in their country every year is a pretty special thing. Considering the Turks had far more casualties than the allied forces, it could have been quite easy to pass down an animosity towards Aussies and Kiwis from generation to generation, but that's certainly not the case. The power of humanity to heal and forgive is truly something special. Mustafa Kemal Ataturk is Turkey's iconic leader. He was an army commander during the war, who went on afterwards to revolutionise the country. He is much loved by his people. Yet most significantly to us, he is famed for saying this to the families on AUS and NZ who lost men to the fighting in Turkey:

Funnily enough, one night when we were browsing in a few little touristy shops in a town, as usual all of the sellers were asking where we were from (if I had a dollar for every one of them who then said 'Ah, Australia? Aussie, Aussie, Aussie, Oi oi oi' I'd be a very rich lady). Anyway, a couple of younger blokes saw our jumpers and said in broken English 'Anzac! We love Anzac, we are brothers, your grandfather and my grandfather fought in the war, they are brothers'.

That was just touching.

3. Istanbul - City of delights

Outside the Blue Mosque

The Blue Mosque, courtyard. We encountered the Muslim call to prayer five times a day. An Arabic voice was broadcast across the city to announce prayer time. Even at 5am in the morning!

An older palace

The undergroound cistern. An old water storage facility. Very pretty

The Aiya Sophia. Another mosque, that was previously a church

4. Food - yum!

We went to a a cooking school and Glen got to weild the big chopper

Me with my hollowed out eggplant, filled it with onion, tomato and herb and braisded in a pot, yummy

getting ready to fold the Dolmades

Glen in action

Yummy syrup cakes, just divine, I will make these again

Here they are finished

Something random: chocolate with pistahio nuts, yummo!

Bakalava, just delicious too. And more pistachios, obviously a favourite in Turkey

5. Travertines at Pamukkale
These are natural spring pools that have formed into what looks like snow. It's actually rock that has been developed through carbonation from the flowing water over the years. They were pretty amazing looking, and the water was nice and warm.

6. Troy
Not much of this left, except for a giant timber horse. I was amazed to discover though, that Troy had been a city about 9 times over. Each time a new one being built or expanded. So there are ruins all over the place from a variety of times. Pretty cool hey?

Layers of civilisation

The big horse

7. Shopping in the Grand Bazzar
This was a real experience. With over 4000 stalls spruiking their wares, there was a bargain or two to be had by all. I got some lovely scarves and fake sunnies and Glen got some rip off brand name shirts. We managed to sneak a few photos trying on a sultan's hat, take a look, I think I look super hot - ha ha.

8. Turkish Bath
This was an experience. No photos, sorry. Women's area and men's area. We went into this steaming hot chamber, it was huge with a domed roof. In the centre of the room was a huge marble bench. it was packed in the women's chamber, but not so busy in the men's one Glen tells me. We both had an exfoliation done and then could enjoy the sauna. Afterwards I got a face mask and Glen had a head massage. This was a real experience. There were a few people in there bearing all, I on the other hand am very modest and covered up all the important bits. Would I do this again, not any time soon! But it was interesting. A number of Turkish ladies in there too, so it's obvioulsy a cultural norm for many.

Well that's my Turkey saga. I'll leave you with this last photo, I thought it was hilarious, and really sums up the fake/knock off market over there. I had a few sellers tell me their fake brand name shirts were 'good quality', 'you can have bad quaility fakes and good quaility fakes'. Well there you have it. And here I was thinking that all fakes were cheap, silly me.

An Austrian Adventure

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Someone I work with told me that Austria is her favourite place to visit. At the time I thought, Ok, that's a big call, given the multitude of countries across Europe shouldering each other out of the way to bag the tourist limelight. Yet, having spent a few days there, I can actually see why it's her favourite, and just maybe, it's my favourite too - for now.

We didn't spend time in the big cities like Salzberg or Vienna. Instead we booked a little ski holiday in a town nestled in the Zillertal Mountains called Mayrhofen (My-er-hof-fen). Think of all the images you've ever seen of the Austrian countryside...

The enormous peaks of snow topped mountains are ringed with cloud. High mountains covered in tall pine trees cradle a verdant green valley winding its way along a natural path between the mountains. Animals graze in paddocks of grass, enclosed by rustic timber beamed fences. Large square houses are dotted over the landscape, often two or three stories high with enormous sloping brown tile roofs and eaves that extend significantly. Fascia boards made of expensive looking timber are carved into intrcate circular and scalloped patterns. Many different types and cuts of timber make up the exterior of the homes along with an off-white render. These homes are nestled on the valley floor, or even perched up the steep slopes of the mountainside.

This is exactly as it is - our view as we caught the little local train from the city of Innsbruck, to the small town of Mayrhofen. Have a look for yourself:

Glen took this one from the cable car. The weather the day before had been sunny and really hot. Overnight it snowed in the mountains and became cold. Crazy!

This one is a little blurry - taken from the train window. Wish we'd got a pic on the sunny day...

For the life of me I can't get this image to rotate. So please tolerate my computer iliteracy and tilt your head. Take a look at the architecture, looks like a fancy pants restaurant or something. Pretty typically Austrian - quaint and folksy.

The point of our little trip was to have a go at some wintersports. Glen was mad keen to try out snowboarding, and I was only mildly keen to flouder down the slopes on skis. To be honest, skiing scares me a little. You hear of so many injuries endured by people skiing, and lets face it, I am no good walking down a mountain at the best of times, let along sliding down a mountain on thin fibreglass boards that I have little control over!

Deceivingly, my day on the slopes started well. I was Queen of the nursery slopes (very light gradient and only about 30 metres long). I weaved in and out of the littlies, exploiting my snowplow skills like a pro (who'd only had 2 lessons last year at Mount Perisher). I didn't fall once! So the instuctor decided to take me on some blue (easy runs) in the afternoon (I was the only lucky duck who showed up for the afternoon session). Ok I thought, I can give these a go. Little did I know that they were at times a little steep and narrow, required 180 degree turns and that in places they dropped off at the edge steeply. All my worst fears rolled into one - a skiing accident waiting to happen. So I basically spent two hours with my calf and thigh muscles clenched in terror, frantically snowplowing my way down the mountain. I was trying to stay away from the far side of the run to avoid my nightmare of plunging over the edge as a result of my now inadequate snowplow skills. I had to stop to relieve my legs a number of times, my muscles were screaming and shaking in fear. I think the instructor thought I was lazy and unfit (I suppose the latter could be somewhat true), but really I was petrified! After 2 hours of downhill agony, about 10 falls and a failed red run (I got half way and then walked the bottom - it was almost horizontal!) I took off the skis and staggered over to Glen at our pre-arranged meeting point. He smiled and waved to me and I grimaced, as I dragged myself to the outdoor table. I focussed on lifting each leg one at a time for fear of collapsing in the muddy slush at the bottom of the slope. Utterly exhausted, I began to take off my ski boots, when my ears picked out a few words of a familiar voice - my ski instructor: 'she just didn't have the legs for it, she said they were hurting on the first run...' Yup, and they were buddy, because you took me out of my depth! The cheek of him! So, that was the end of my skiing for the trip. It wasn't long before UIMS set in (unbelievably intense muscle soreness -ha ha), and I spent the follwing 2 days limping and staggering around the place. I think I can say justly that skiing is just not my bag.

Well my terrifying experience was far from Glen's. He took to snowboarding pretty well. And can even do the snowboarder's handshake! He had three lessons and then did some red and blue runs (for the record, he said the blue runs I did were a nightmare, he'd done them too and hated them). He came down from the slopes each day smiling and keen to recount his runs. Here are a few pics of his first lesson, don't overlook him in the bright green!

There was some good snowfall on the third and fourth days of our stay. Take a look at some of Glen's pictures:

On the third day of our trip we headed up to the Hintertux Glacier for a look around. We had to take three cable cars to get to the top, being 3250m above sea level. The slopes were pretty impressive on this side of the mountain, and there were quite a few people out, considering visibility was not so great and the snow and the wind were intense. The snow here was literally like powder. If you can imagine those elite beaches we have in Oz where the sand is so fine it squeaks when you walk on it. Well that is the closest comparison I can draw to the consistency of this snow.

Check out the visibility here, it was just mad. The snow was absolutely billowing.

At the top of the glacier the wind was fierce. You can see in the pictures above. the cold was biting. Guess who forgot to bring gloves? Have a look in the image above.

We visited the Snow Palace inside the glacier. It was pretty impressive. Our guide took us down a short slope to the entrance, where she shoveled away some snow to reveal a cave-like doorway. We went in and it was immediately much more bearable inside. the ice crystals were amazing! She led us down the ice passages and we were able to see a new crevasse forming in the glacier. Up and down ladders, in and out of chambers. It really could have been liveable. If you could bear the cold.

Leaving the ice palace and walking back up to slope to the cable car was crazy. Being at such a high altitude meant it was harder to breathe. Batting the snow being blown into my eyes and struggling up the hill in snow up to my knees, I found myself falling and then getting up again only to fall over once more. My breath was coming in short gasps, and all the liquids normally present in my nose had frozen solid. When we finally reached the station, the guide told us that it was about -30 degress at that point, given the wind chill. What a surreal experience! I could imagine how intense it must feel for some people climbing up Mount Everest, and I only walked 200 metres! How much more admirable do I find that feat, considering my experience, wowee.

All to soon our stay in Mayrhofen drew to a close. Yet, not before I quickly tell you about our hotel experience. It really can't be faulted but for one thing. You see, on first arrival to our room we were overpowered my a putrid smell, like manure. It was awful. Opening up the door to step out onto the balcony, the smell was overwhelming. Why? Because just below, three stories down, there was a huge pile of cow manure mixed with straw. Yep, a little timber barn, sitting alone in a paddock right next to our hotel....storing manure for the world to see and smell. Needless to say we requested a room change and promptly got away from the sight. Yet no matter where you walked outside the hotel, the smell was always in the air. How awful! And this wasn't a small hotel either, it was made up of about four buildings. Ah well, maybe that's the Austrian way!

Loz is going to be a MUM! Eder is going to be a DAD! And we'll be AUNTY STACEY and UNCLE GLEN

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What wonderful news for the Marquez family. Now I'm allowed to broadcast on my blog that my sister's having a baby! How exciting. I should have clued in when she was sewing baby toys and blankets before we left. But Loz has always been one to be organised for things well in advance, considering she was collecting stuff for the salon she'd have one day, years in advance.

So the baby is on the way, and I'm madly sewing and crocheting. I'm so happy and excited for L and E, this baby is going to have a blessed life. Pleasingly, the baby already has a name, 'Peach', as Lauren has been measuring its size in objects as it grows. Mum and i had a little laugh when she read on the inernet that it was as big as a peach, and from there that name's just stuck. I think it may be destined to become a nickname. I wonder if that's ok for a boy?...

Of course this is not the first time we've been Aunty an Uncle, we've loved watching the beautiful Trin grow up. And so we are now very lucky to have 2 nieces or a niece and nephew to call our own.

Three Thoughts for Thursday....

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I couldn't resist the alliteration in this title. While Thursday is still about two hours away, the word nerd in me felt quietly chuffed that my brain thought this up, *what a break through Sherlock* (said with well meant sarcasm). Here are three things I want to share:

1. I'm scared. We're off to Austria on Sunday for four days of skiing. A big part of me is so excited to be doing something this special. A little part of me fears for my life. You see, the last time we went skiing I had Glenny there with me. Whenever I fell over, he was there to yank me up again (because there was very little chance of me contorting my over-padded body and ski feet in such a way as to be able to do it myself). However this time there is no Glenny. He's chasing dreams on a snowboard, so I fear I will be left to wallow around like a bloated starfish sprawled across the ice, destined to never stand upright again. It's true, once I fall I can't get up.

2. I am dancing. Glen and I have taken up jive dancing (no, that's not a typo). Let's face it, I'm never going to be a ballerina or the next back-up dancer on Beyonce's tour (not that I want either of these things), but I do want to know how to move to the music in a meaningful way. This rock and roll style dancing is for anyone and everyone and I must say, we're doing okay.

3. I feel humbled. To think that about 14 people find what I write even remotely interesting makes my heart tap dance on my rib cage. Happy, happy, if you find even a glimmer of meaning or value in my posts I feel truly honoured.

Good night!

Cultural Quip no. 5

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An Australian Story. Who has time to miss home, when it's all around you over here? (Actually, I find a lot of time to miss home, but I work through the homesickness, toughen up sister, I say). Never have I felt more proud to be an Aussie than since we've been here (and that's saying something, because normally I'm one of the happiest Aussies around. What is that adage: absence makes the heart grow fonder, yup it's true). You see the thing is, barely a day goes by that we don't hear or see mention of our great home land. The Brits (and Europeans) seem to have a thing for Australia and Australians, and I'm beamingly pleased to say it's all positive.

Over the past few months I have been compiling a mental list of all the Aussie-ness I've come across in day-to-day life. I'm now going to attempt to list these experiences below. Some significant, others less so, yet regardless, each of these things served as a happy reminder of that great land we call 'home'. Here goes:

Teachers talking in the staffroom about Australian films (exactly which evades me, I think my ears tuned in halfway through the conversation).
The number of people who ask where we're from and then speak about a year they spent downunder. Here are the places some Brits have called home: Sydney, Melbourne, Perth (a few have lived there, including one Belgian we spoke to), Adelaide, Ayr, travelling up the red centre to Darwin, The Whitsundays....Perhaps a few others escape me. But that's at least 8 people I can think of who've spent a year in Oz - Wowee.
Students really fascinated by the Aussie accent 'oh your accent is so cool!', 'I wish I could talk like that!'
Some one asked me today if I'd seen Summer Height's High...didn't know that it has crossed the ocean.
Ads on TV for Fosters (deceivingly not Australian, so Glen tells me, though it may have been once upon a time). These depict stereotypical Aussie blokes imparting sagely advice to the wanting Britsh men. I have put some of these clips below this post. Don't forget to watch them.
Ads on TV for tourism to Australia, sung 'There's nothing like Australia!'
TV programs: Neighbours, Home and Away. Bondi Vet, Medical Emergencies, Bondi Rescue, *that airport customs show*.
In fact, at one school I worked at a student asked me if I'd been to Bondi Beach, he said: 'Me and my mum used to watch that show all the time'.
TV Trailers for 'Tomorrow When the War Began' film, coming out belatedly mid April.
A Lady sitting on the bus with an Aborignal dot print hand bag.
Vegemite in the supermarket.
Pizza Shapes being put on the market over here, 'the popular Aussie snack' so they say.
Being told by the lovely lady selling waffles that she loves Australians: 'The English are warm hearted and friendly when they come over, but the Australians have that warmth deep in their heart, and they're kind and completely genuine' Awwwww...!
The occasional banter about The Ashes 'We beat you in The Ashes, hey!'
Coming across a shop window in Belgium full of crazy big guns. Being a boy, Glen had to stop, look and then share a comment with some bloke-stranger next to him....who happened to be an Australian!
Seeing Australian wines (and plenty of 'em!) in the supermarkets here and in France: Jacob's Creek, McWilliams, Penfolds, Wolf Blass, McGuigans, Brown Brothers, Houghtons (or have I invented that last one?).....I'm sure they're more.
A weekly magazine called TNT circulated free in London (not around here :( ) For young Australians and New Zealanders staying in the UK. Accommodation info, travel, news from home, latest events, interviews, etc.
Kylie Minogue - live in concert this week. Clearly she's still got a following over here.
Walking past a man in the main street tonight wearing an Australia logo jumper.

Maybe I am over-sensitive to these things as I struggle with my little bouts of homesickness. Yet regardless, of this, I can honetly say I've never been more proud to call myself an Aussie. You're only as far away from home as you let it seem....

Another Fosters Ad

9:42 PM Edit This 0 Comments »

I think these ads are fantastic. I'll post a couple more down the track. Wonder how many times Glenny's thought badly about my haircuts? I love the fact that it's two occa blokes giving advice, I reckon they're pretty spot on. What do you think?